‘The “W. B. Erect Form” corset gives a long, low and full effect from shoulder to bust. It is the only correct model for the new straight-front styles in costumes. It is a health corset. It is a surpassingly beautiful corset.’ (W.B. Erect Form Corset Ad, 1900)
Even though I often make historical corsets, particularly Edwardian corsets, this is the first time I used coutil – the typical corset fabric of today – and spoiler: I don’t like it! 😉 Continue reading Edwardian Coutil Corset→
If you read my blog regularly, you know that I’m more drawn to historical lower class everyday clothing, especially rural working woman costumes. This is my newest peasant woman outfit: It consists of an unbleached chemise, unboned rural stays, bumroll and dyed-by-me corded petticoat and tucked skirt. An outfit like my historical farm girl outfit would’ve been worn in the 18th century or early Victorian era. And without the bumroll the working class woman costume is even suitable for the Edwardian era. Continue reading Historical Peasant Woman Outfit: Unboned Stays, Bumroll & Corded Petticoat→
Learn how to make 34 historical types of seams. For historical costumes and modern clothing!
The Victorians had a seam for every purpose! The following 34 historical types of seams have already been used since the Victorian era. While some types of seams are even older and have been used since the Middle Ages. You can use the following 34 historical seam finishes for your Victorian and Edwardian clothing. But of course you can also use them for your modern clothing! Continue reading 34 Types of Seams – Historical Sewing→
‘Margery was always in black and white, short walking skirt and trim white shirt waist, freshly laundered […] There was no picture hat on her bonny brown hair, but a little black sailor with a swallow’s wing on one side and a bunch of violets in a knot of ribbon.’ (Madeira Mercury, 1907)
In the Edwardian era, there were 5 ways to attach ruffles: with a receiving tuck, flat felled seam, finishing braid, French seam or whipped gathers. The first four can be sewn on a sewing machine, while the last one is sewn by hand. All these techniques have in common that the right and wrong side of your skirt looks tidy: there are no raw edges on the wrong side and the skirt is also much more durable than if you‘d use zigzagged or serged seams to attach ruffles. Continue reading 5 Ways To Attach Ruffles – Historical & Heirloom Sewing→
I made a short Edwardian faux silk petticoat to wear under my newest short Edwardian walking skirts. My main inspirations for this petticoat actually came from the short, almost 1950s-style petticoats of Edwardian showgirls and burlesque dancers! Continue reading Short Edwardian Faux Silk Petticoat→
The girl ‘wore a big rat under her pompadour and preferred a short walking skirt, even if men did turn around and look’ (Los Angeles Herald, 1900).
‘She certainly was an unusual figure, for that quiet neighborhood. Attired in a close-fitting suit of gray with a short walking skirt and a wide-brimmed gray felt hat that concealed her beautiful hair (Inyo Independent, 1902).
Sewing buttonholes on the bias grain of fabric is difficult. If you try to sew buttonholes on the true bias the fabric stretches and the bias buttonhole looks distorted. But there’s a trick how you can sew perfect buttonholes on the bias!
In the Edwardian era, buttonholes were often on the bias grain of fabric. Bias buttonholes with silk ribbon threaded through them decorated necklines and hems of Edwardian lingerie. My next sewing project was an Edwardian combination suit with 144 buttonholes on the bias. And because I didn’t want to sew all these 144 bias buttonholes by hand, I had to think of something to sew the bias buttonholes on my sewing machine! Continue reading How To Sew Buttonholes On The Bias→