In this tutorial I’ll show you how to make Bermuda fagoting. Bermuda fagoting is a lacelike stitch which resembles hemstitching. The fabric is pierced with a coarse needle without removing any threads as in hemstitching: therefore it can be worked on curved lines, and it’s easy and fast to make.
Bermuda fagoting was often used in the Edwardian era for monograms or to attach lace: ‘Lace edging or insertion may be applied to material with Bermuda fagotting by basting the lace to place and working the stitch so that every other straight stitch is taken through the lace and material; afterwards the raw edge of the material behind the lace may be cut off close to the fagotting.’ (Clothing For Women, 1916) Here’s a 1916 picture of lace fagotted to fabric. Bermuda fagoting is sometimes called Point Turc or three-sided stitch, and it can also be worked as four-sided stitch.
- white cotton fabric
- white sewing thread
- coarse needle
- embroidery hoop
Double the sewing thread. Here I’m working the Bermuda fagoting from left to right, but it can also be worked from right to left.
Take some threads on the needle – the needle is in line with the Bermuda fagoting.
Repeat the stitch, and draw the thread tight. Now you’ll have the first two holes.
Pierce the needle through the fabric in a slanting line.
Repeat the stitch, and draw the thread tight. Now there are three holes.
Pierce the needle through the fabric, again in a straight line.
Repeat the stitch and draw the thread tight. There are four holes now.
Now end the first series of stitches by bringing the needle up in the first hole. Repeat the stitch and draw the thread tight.
Repeat all the stitches.
I worked the stitch on a straight line, but Bermuda fagoting can also follow a curved line.
Here you’ll find more of my lace tutorials:
- How to make broderie anglaise by hand
- How to attach lace the Edwardian way (3 methods)
- Edwardian lace insertion tutorial (with hand-rolled hem)
- 1920s imitation picot hem
- How to make an Edwardian lace yoke
- How to attach lace to a gathered edge