Do you want to sew an Edwardian straight-front corset – aka S-bend corset? 😀 Here are two video tutorials on how to sew a historically accurate Edwardian corset: One video tutorial is for a heavily boned Edwardian linen coutil corset. And the other video tutorial is for a lightly boned Edwardian cotton net summer corset. The corsets have the following historically accurate sewing details: made of a single layer of fabric, lapped seams or flat felled seams, cotton Valenciennes lace trim and a corset hook – aka skirt hook – at the front.
What Is An Edwardian Corset?
In the Edwardian era (1901-1914), straight-front corsets became popular. Unlike Victorian corsets with their curved fronts, the main feature of Edwardian straight-front corsets is – as the name implies – 😉 the straight, rigid front. Beginning in the early 1900s, it was now fashionable to have a straight front from the bust to the knees – aka “The New Figure”.
The ‘fashionable woman […] is required to present an unbroken line from the decolletage to the knee’ (The Queen, 1901).
By the way, today, Edwardian straight-front corsets are usually known as S-bend corsets.
Details Of Edwardian Corsets
There existed many different varieties of corsets in the Edwardian era, such as sports corsets, corded health corsets, summer corsets, ribbon corsets made of elastic webbing etc. However, the main features of Edwardian corsets are the following.
Main Details Of Edwardian Corsets
- made of a single-layer of fabric
- cut in a new corset shape: with a flat front and big hips & butt
- made of strong, but thin fabric: corset jean and cotton batiste were popular corset fabrics in the Edwardian era
- corset pieces joined with lapped seams
- the ridge of the seams turned towards the back
- from unboned to lightly boned to heavily boned – all existed in the Edwardian era
- the best expensive corsets were still boned with whalebone or whalebone substitutes, such as horn. But cheaper Edwardian corsets were already boned with metal boning
- corset hook at the center front to keep the dip waist of Edwardian skirts in place
- the top of the corset embellished with cotton Valenciennes lace and silk ribbon
- laced with either one continuous or two or three separate corset laces
- flat silk or flat cotton corset laces
- wide elastic garters at the front and hips – an Edwardian corset usually had between 4 and 8 garters
Related: Edwardian Unboned Sports Corset
Edwardian Corset Fabrics & Colors
Unlike today, where corset coutil is often accepted as the only “true” corset fabric, 😉 many different corset fabrics were used in the Edwardian era. From summer netting to batiste to jean to linen and silk fabrics. Below you’ll find a list of the most popular Edwardian corset fabrics.
Edwardian Corset Fabrics
- corset jean – cotton twill fabric similar to jeans
- heavy jean
- brocaded jean
- cotton batiste
- sateen or satin jean – shiny cotton satin weave fabric
- coutil – obviously lighter than today’s corset coutil – cotton twill weave fabric in herringbone pattern
- silk broché
- linen broché
- silk ribbon – for ribbon corsets
- elastic – for elastic ribbon corsets & as insets
Edwardian Summer Corset Fabrics
- “summer net” or “summer netting” – openwork leno-weave cotton or linen fabric (with twisted threads)
- cotton batiste
- silk broché
- linon broché – a linen silk blend fabric
- linen cambric
- cotton broderie anglaise – eyelet lace – fabric
By the way, the most common Edwardian corset colors were white and drab. But there were also corsets in black and in pastel colors, such as pink and blue. And the “pompadour pattern” was also very popular: this beautiful pattern consists of small pink roses, small green leaves and powder blue scrolls on a white background.
Related: Edwardian Blue & White Striped Batiste Summer Corset
Free Antique Edwardian Corset Patterns
On clusterfrock.com, you can find over 20 free antique Edwardian sewing patterns for corsets and brassieres. Keep in mind that some of these patterns are intended for special purposes.
I’d recommend using one of the more ordinary sewing patterns, like the “1901 Reform Corset with Adjustable Stomach”, the “1906 Corset (Straight Front) of a New Simple Cut” or the “1906 Simple Model of Corset”. Print out the pattern and make one or more mock-ups to adjust the corset to your figure (especially the waist). Most Edwardian corsets had extra space at the bust and hips, which was filled with padding.
Instead of the free antique Edwardian corset patterns, you can also buy a corset pattern. However, you still have to make a mock-up to adjust the corset pattern. I usually have to make more than one mock-up until I’m finally happy with the fit of the corset! 😉
How To Sew An Edwardian Corset – Video Tutorial
For the heavily boned Edwardian straight-front linen corset I made in the video above, I used the following materials.
Materials For My Heavily Boned Edwardian Corset
- cotton linen blend herringbone fabric
- stainless steel corset busk
- metal boning
- synthetic whalebone boning in two different thicknesses
- cotton twill tape for the boning channels & binding the edges of the corset
- 5mm metal grommets
- flat, natural fiber faux silk corset laces – sturdy viscose ribbon
- cotton Valenciennes & Mechlin lace
- silk ribbons
- large metal hook
- wide elastic garters
I also posted an ASMR version of this Edwardian corset tutorial in real time and with original sewing sounds like fabric cutting and sewing the corset on my treadle sewing machine. Let me know in the comments what type of video you prefer: ASMR video tutorial with original sewing sounds & in real time – or with music & time-lapse parts. 😀
How To Sew An Edwardian Summer Corset – Video Tutorial
For the lightly boned Edwardian summer corset, I used the following materials.
Related: Edwardian Summer Corset
Materials For My Lightly Boned Edwardian Summer Corset
- cotton net fabric – leno-weave aida cloth with twisted threads
- metal corset busk
- metal boning
- synthetic whalebone boning
- cotton twill tape for the boning channels & binding the edges of the corset
- 5mm metal grommets
- flat cotton corset laces
- cotton Valenciennes & Mechlin lace
- silk ribbons
- large metal hook
Related: 10 Edwardian Sewing Details + Why They Were Used
Please Pin It!
wonderful site…you are superlatively talented. Question…your hot pink petticoat…could that color be used for a silk outer skirt? we are displaying some clothes and have a modern skirt for an ivory silk 1890s top, brocaded in very hot pink roses…can we use a matching hot pink skirt? can we get away with it?? thanks for your time!
Thank you! 😀 Yes, the hot pink color of my petticoat would be suitable for an Edwardian silk outer skirt. However, in the 1890s and 1900s, the bodice and skirt of silk garments were usually made of the same fabric. If the bodice and skirt were not of the same material, then the silk skirt was worn with a cotton shirtwaist blouse. So I think the skirt of your antique silk bodice is missing. If you’re displaying the garment for educational purposes, I’d display just the silk bodice or the silk bodice with a petticoat and mention that the matching silk skirt is missing. Hope this helps! 🙂