First of all, I hate making mockups! 😉 But they’re essential for a good fit of the garment. I usually have to make more than one mockup before I’m finally satisfied with the fit: especially for form-fitting garments like corsets and tailored garments like jackets.
‘Two fittings for a simple garment, such as a house-dress, a plain shirt-waist, or a skirt, should be sufficient, if the garment has been properly prepared and the fitting is carefully done. Generally it is not necessary to fit more than the right side of a simple garment unless there is a great difference between the right and left sides of the figure.’ (A Manual Of Home-Making, 1919)
What Is A Mockup?
A mockup or mock-up, also known as muslin or toile, is used to test the fit of a new sewing pattern and adapt the pattern to your figure.
You fit the mockup over any layers of clothing you want to wear under your finished garment. So, for example, if you’re making a mockup for an Edwardian coat: You’d wear all the necessary layers of clothing underneath: chemise, corset, corset cover, shirtwaist, petticoat and skirt. Then you try on and fit the mockup over all these layers of clothing.
How To Make A Muslin Or Mockup
To make a muslin, you cut the pattern out of fabric. Then you sew the fabric pieces together with the raw edges facing out: this makes adjusting the mockup easier.
Unless the mockup is for a corset, you don’t have to add a closure – just mark where the closure will be on the finished garment. For a corset mockup, however, you’ll have to add a corset busk at the front and grommets or eyelets at the back of the corset mockup.
How To Adjust The Fit Of A Mockup
Now it’s time to try on the mockup and adjust the fit. With the seams facing out, try the mockup on. Pin the mockup together where the line of the closure is. Then make adjustments.
If the mockup is too large, insert sewing needles along the seams to make it more form-fitting.
If the mockup is too small, rip the seam open or cut a slit in the fabric where it is too tight and insert a piece of fabric.
Typically you’ll need to make more than one adjustment to different areas of the mockup until it finally fits.
Where & How To Make Adjustments To The Mockup
Wrinkles in the fabric are usually a good indicator of where you need to make more adjustments to the mockup.
So, for example, there are horizontal wrinkles in the waist or hip area: this usually indicates that the mockup is too tight in this area. So slash right through the fabric where the fabric wrinkles are and insert a small piece of fabric. Pin the piece of fabric in place and adjust until the wrinkles are gone.
What Fabric For A Mockup?
To make a muslin or mockup, use a cheaper fabric than the fabric for the garment. You can also use suitable fabric from your stash that you no longer need. Or use fabric scraps left over from other sewing projects if they’re large enough.
You can also reuse the mockup fabric from a large mockup, like a skirt or coat, for smaller mockup, like a jacket or collar & cuffs for a blouse.
Use a fabric for the mockup that has a similar fabric weight and stretch as the fabric for the garment. Sturdy cotton fabrics, like cotton twill or canvas, or upholstery fabrics are good mockup fabrics.
Mockup Fabric – Problems
I find it difficult to find a suitable mockup fabric when making a muslin for a tailored wool garment. Because wool fabric is expensive, I don’t want to waste it on a mockup.
And sturdy cotton fabrics or upholstery fabrics may have a similar fabric weight to heavy wool fabrics, like tweed or broadcloth, but the stretch of the fabric is completely different. So if the cotton mockup fits perfectly, there may be issues with the fit of the finished wool garment. Even heavy, woven and fulled wool broadcloth has a different stretch than sturdy cotton fabrics.
So far I haven’t found a perfect solution to this problem. So I either use a cotton fabric of a similar fabric weight and stretch factor to fit the muslin for a wool garment. Or if I know I only have to make minor adjustments to the mockup, I use the garment fabric to make the mockup: I cut the pattern pieces slightly larger to allow for smaller adjustments.
How To Save Time When Making A Mockup
In contrast to the garment fabric, you don’t have to prewash the mockup fabric. Not prewashing the mockup fabric saves a lot of time! And it’s also not necessary since you’re not wearing the mockup next to your skin.
Related: 11 Tips On How To Sew Faster