Edwardian Tailored Wool Skirt & Linen Shirtwaist

Edwardian Tailored Skirt And Linen Shirtwaist

That’s my other Edwardian shirtwaist costume. It’s a late Edwardian outfit with tailored plaid wool skirt and apricot-colored linen blouse with crochet lace.

Related: Edwardian Shirtwaist Costume

‘Woolens or mixed weaves are much more difficult to cut out, join and finish than cotton materials, consequently a different method is used in working with them. This method is called tailoring, and includes moderate styles with straight lines and perfect curves and an exactness that is not necessary when draping or constructing gowns for fancy effects.’ (Text-Book On Domestic Art, 1911)

Edwardian Tailored Wool Skirt

Late Edwardian Circular Skirt

Edwardian Circular Skirt
Edwardian circular skirt

The skirt is a circular skirt. Early Edwardian skirt were trumpet skirts with more flare around the hem of the skirt, while late Edwardian skirts were usually circular skirts. I used this antique 1908 (free) sewing pattern: The 3-Part Skirt. Here I compared the 3-Part Skirt skirt with a 1901 skirt pattern, the Skirt Astarte, which I’ll use for my Edwardian lingerie dress.

Related: 1910s Plaid Wool Skirt

Box Pleat At The Back

Edwardian Plaid Wool Skirt
Inverted box pleat at the back

Edwardian wool skirt usually had an inverted box pleat at the back: ‘an inverted box-plait taking up the back fulness, unless habit style is preferred.’ (The Delineator, 1905)

Edwardian Skirt Closure

Edwardian Skirt Closure With Snaps And Hooks And Eyes
Skirt closed with two hooks & eyes and four snaps

Edwardian skirts were usually closed with snaps at the left front side seam. ‘Use hooks and eyes, or snaps, to hold the placket closed.’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916)

Edwardian Belt/ Waistband

Edwardian Dip Waist Belt
Edwardian dip-waist belt

I finished the top of the skirt with a dip-waist belt. ‘The top of a tailored skirt is usually finished so it can be worn outside of a shirt waist.’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916)

‘The belt may be fastened with hooks and eyes, snaps, buttons or a buckle.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916) ‘Have a belt finished to the correct waist measure, with hooks and eyes sewed on. If fitting to the normal waist line, the belt may be one inch in width or less. When fitting for a high waist line, use a belt the height you wish the edge of the skirt above the normal waist line.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)

Edwardian Wool And Linen Shirtwaist Costume

I drafted the belt pattern based on an Edwardian belt pattern in Jean Hunnisett’s Period Costume For Stage And Screen. I love that Edwardian dip-waist belts make the waist look small!

The Hem

1900s Linen Shirtwaist Costume
The willow before the storm – I’ve loved this willow in grandma’s garden since I was a child. But winter storms damaged the tree not once but twice this winter and most of the tree’s crown is down now.

I finished the hem of the Edwardian tailored wool skirt with a self-fabric bias strip and blind hemmed it by hand.

‘If there is not enough material on the bottom of the skirt to form a hem, it may be faced by sewing a bias strip the width desired, to the bottom of the skirt, turning it back and finishing it like a hem. A fitted facing may be used if desired; it may be sewed on in the same manner as the bias strip.’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916) ‘Tailored skirts should have a hem or facing not over three inches when finished, because heavy material, when turned at different widths will make angles.’ (Text-Book On Domestic Art, 1911)

Edwardian Tailored Wool Skirt

‘There are several ways to finish the hem at the top. Remove the fulness either by gathers, and shrink fulness out before placing binding (Fig. 213) or by darts. (1) Cloths which do not fray may be pinked in the edge, if the hem is to be stitched by machine […] baste the upper edge of the binding to the skirt and either blind hem it or stitch by machine’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)

Edwardian Artificial Silk Petticoat

Edwardian black silk petticoat
Black taffeta petticoat & antique Edwardian chair

Wool skirts were worn with silk or artificial silk petticoats in the Edwardian era. ‘Silk is very generally used for petticoats to be worn with tailored suits and dresses of wool, silk and linen. These may be finished with a hem at the bottom, or with dust ruffle, and gathered or plaited flounce, according to the fashion in width for the outer skirt. […] Taffeta, messalines and satins, while not so durable, shed the dust easily. They are very generally used. A wide range of colors is to be had, as well as black and white.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916) I’m wearing the skirt over a black artificial silk petticoat.

Edwardian Linen Shirtwaist

The Fabric

Edwardian Pouter Pigeon Look
Edwardian pouter pigeon look

For the Edwardian shirtwaist (blouse) I used 100% linen fabric in apricot. Because it’s pure linen fabric it’s a rather stiff fabric and doesn’t drape very well.

The Pattern

Edwardian Gibson Girl Pompadour Hairstyle

I used my self-drafted Edwardian shirtwaist pattern again which is based on this 1911 corset cover pattern and this 1916 shirtwaist pattern. The shirtwaist has a square neck like this Edwardian shirtwaist.

Crochet Lace Yoke and Cuffs

Edwardian Pompadour Hairstyle

Inspired by this Edwardian lawn dress with Irish crochet and this shirtwaist with a crochet lace yoke, I crocheted a lace yoke. The sleeves are finished with the same crochet lace: Edwardian blouse with crochet lace yoke and cuffs.

Edwardian Pompadour Hairstyle

Edwardian Shirtwaist Costume And Dog
Pompadour hairstyle with figure 8 bun

I’m wearing an everyday Edwardian pompadour hairstyle with a figure 8 bun.

-> Authentic Edwardian Pompadour Hairstyle Tutorial

Edwardian Shirtwaist Costume And My Dog
Sleepy dog

Related: 50 Edwardian Pompadour Gibson Girl Hairstyles

14 thoughts on “Edwardian Tailored Wool Skirt & Linen Shirtwaist

  1. Very lovely! I love the details of the lace on the neck and sleeves of the blouse. I have been buying a few linen pieces for summer myself. your skirt is lovely too, love the design at the waist.
    thanks for linking!
    jess xx

  2. HI I’m making something similar but with a gather and shorter. Do you have any tips for getting the hem un-wonky with the dip belt?

    1. With a dip belt, the front of the skirt has to be shorter than the sides or back. You can pin the skirt to a chemise or underskirt so that the hem of the skirt is un-wonky and then pin the dip belt to the skirt. Hope this helps! 🙂

  3. I’ve been looking at the Marquis pattern and I’m very confused by those numbers. What do they mean and how to do interpret them?

    1. The numbers will help you transfer the pattern to a large piece of paper. The measurements of the pattern are in centimeters, not inches. Hope this helps! 🙂

  4. I was wondering are you wearing historical undergarments underneath the shirtwaist or are you wearing modern undergarments. I completely understand if you think this question is too personal!

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