How To Insert Lace By Hand

In the Edwardian era, lace was often inserted with a rolled hem by hand. This creates a secure and neat finish that is almost invisible on the right side of the fabric.

Related: 6 Ways How To Insert Lace

You’ll need:

cotton lace – like bobbin or Valenciennes lace
thin cotton fabric – like batiste, lawn or muslin
cotton sewing thread matching the color of the lace or fabric
needle
scissors
optional: sewing machine

Step 1: Sew The Lace To The Fabric

Pin or baste the lace to the fabric. Then sew the lace to the fabric along both edges with straight stitches on your sewing machine or with running stitches by hand. Sew both rows of stitches in the same direction to prevent the fabric from distorting.

If you use delicate handmade lace, it ‘should be sewed in place by hand with fine running stitches’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916).

Turn the fabric to the wrong side. And trim the raw edges of the fabric to about 1/8 – 1/4″ (3 – 6mm). Be careful that you don’t accidentally cut the lace.

Step 2: Finish The Raw Edges

Now finish the raw edges of the fabric with a tiny faux hand-rolled hem: Sew closely spaced overcast stitches close to your stitching lines and draw them tight.

Related: Overhand, Overcast, Hem & Whip Stitch – What’s The Difference

This faux rolled hem was a popular way to finish the raw edges on lace inserts in the Edwardian era. On the wrong side it looks like a rolled hem. And on the right side it’s almost invisible.