Do you need to invisibly join lace trim for your next sewing project? Learn how to sew an invisible lace seam by hand. This method to join lace is from the Edwardian era! Use this invisible lace join instead of a bulky seam for your next historical costuming or heirloom sewing project!
Currently I‘m making an Edwardian lace chemise for which I use lace scraps from my stash. And the Edwardians knew a method to invisibly sew lace together. This invisible seam works particularly well with lace that doesn’t fray badly: like cotton Valenciennes lace which I use here.
Related: 6 Ways How To Insert Lace
‘When joining fine lace, for the neck of corset covers, night-dresses, lingerie waists, lay one end of the lace on top of the other, so that one pattern covers the other, matching exactly, and baste; sew around one side of pattern, and through mesh in an irregular line, with fine hemming and an occasional buttonhole stitch; or if lace is not very fine, use all buttonhole stitches.
Trim the ends of the lace away close to the buttonhole stitches; the join will look like an irregularity in the weave. Cluny and other laces that ravel badly will need to be joined by a seam, and the ends hemmed or buttonholed to keep them from fraying out.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)
So if you have lace scraps in your stash or leftover from another project don’t throw them away: Use this invisible lace seam from the 1900s to join your lace pieces. And by the way, it’s a very secure seam: Even after frequent washing and wearing the invisible lace seam doesn’t come undone.
Related: Edwardian Lace Petticoat
How To Join Lace – Invisible Seam
- lace, e.g. cotton Valenciennes lace
- cotton sewing thread (matching the color of the lace)
- fine hand sewing needle
1. Lay the lace trim on top of each other (right sides up) so that the pattern matches.
2. Thread a fine hand sewing needle with sewing thread. Sew around one of the ornaments with tiny overhand stitches joining both layers of lace together. The overhand stitch is similar to the overcast or whip stitch and makes small slanting stitches on the right side. Use more or less stitches depending on how much the lace frays. Cotton Valenciennes lace usually doesn’t fray too much when cut.
3. Continue sewing around the ornament with overhand stitches: I colored the stitches blue so that you can see them better. Then secure the thread – I usually use a square knot – and cut it off.
4. Now cut away the excess lace close to the stitching on both the right and the wrong sides.
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