That’s my other Edwardian shirtwaist costume. It’s a late Edwardian outfit with tailored plaid wool skirt and apricot-colored linen blouse with crochet lace.
‘Woolens or mixed weaves are much more difficult to cut out, join and finish than cotton materials, consequently a different method is used in working with them. This method is called tailoring, and includes moderate styles with straight lines and perfect curves and an exactness that is not necessary when draping or constructing gowns for fancy effects.’ (Text-Book On Domestic Art, 1911)
Edwardian Tailored Wool Skirt
Late Edwardian Circular Skirt
The skirt is a circular skirt. Early Edwardian skirt were trumpet skirts with more flare around the hem of the skirt, while late Edwardian skirts were usually circular skirts. I used this antique 1908 (free) sewing pattern: The 3-Part Skirt. Here I compared the 3-Part Skirt skirt with a 1901 skirt pattern, the Skirt Astarte, which I’ll use for my Edwardian lingerie dress.
Box Pleat At The Back
Edwardian wool skirt usually had an inverted box pleat at the back: ‘an inverted box-plait taking up the back fulness, unless habit style is preferred.’ (The Delineator, 1905)
Edwardian Skirt Closure
Edwardian skirts were usually closed with snaps at the left front side seam. ‘Use hooks and eyes, or snaps, to hold the placket closed.’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916)
Edwardian Belt/ Waistband
I finished the top of the skirt with a dip-waist belt. ‘The top of a tailored skirt is usually finished so it can be worn outside of a shirt waist.’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916)
‘The belt may be fastened with hooks and eyes, snaps, buttons or a buckle.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916) ‘Have a belt finished to the correct waist measure, with hooks and eyes sewed on. If fitting to the normal waist line, the belt may be one inch in width or less. When fitting for a high waist line, use a belt the height you wish the edge of the skirt above the normal waist line.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)
I drafted the belt pattern based on an Edwardian belt pattern in Jean Hunnisett’s Period Costume For Stage And Screen. I love that Edwardian dip-waist belts make the waist look small!
I finished the hem of the Edwardian tailored wool skirt with a self-fabric bias strip and blind hemmed it by hand.
‘If there is not enough material on the bottom of the skirt to form a hem, it may be faced by sewing a bias strip the width desired, to the bottom of the skirt, turning it back and finishing it like a hem. A fitted facing may be used if desired; it may be sewed on in the same manner as the bias strip.’ (School Sewing Based On Home Problems, 1916) ‘Tailored skirts should have a hem or facing not over three inches when finished, because heavy material, when turned at different widths will make angles.’ (Text-Book On Domestic Art, 1911)
‘There are several ways to finish the hem at the top. Remove the fulness either by gathers, and shrink fulness out before placing binding (Fig. 213) or by darts. (1) Cloths which do not fray may be pinked in the edge, if the hem is to be stitched by machine […] baste the upper edge of the binding to the skirt and either blind hem it or stitch by machine’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)
Edwardian Artificial Silk Petticoat
Wool skirts were worn with silk or artificial silk petticoats in the Edwardian era. ‘Silk is very generally used for petticoats to be worn with tailored suits and dresses of wool, silk and linen. These may be finished with a hem at the bottom, or with dust ruffle, and gathered or plaited flounce, according to the fashion in width for the outer skirt. […] Taffeta, messalines and satins, while not so durable, shed the dust easily. They are very generally used. A wide range of colors is to be had, as well as black and white.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916) I’m wearing the skirt over a black artificial silk petticoat.
Edwardian Linen Shirtwaist
For the Edwardian shirtwaist (blouse) I used 100% linen fabric in apricot. Because it’s pure linen fabric it’s a rather stiff fabric and doesn’t drape very well.
The shirtwaist has a square neck like this Edwardian shirtwaist.
Crochet Lace Yoke and Cuffs
Inspired by this Edwardian lawn dress with Irish crochet and this shirtwaist with a crochet lace yoke, I crocheted a lace yoke. The sleeves are finished with the same crochet lace: Edwardian blouse with crochet lace yoke and cuffs.
Edwardian Pompadour Hairstyle
I’m wearing an everyday Edwardian pompadour hairstyle with a figure 8 bun.