Antique Victorian/ Edwardian Linen Chemise

Antique Edwardian Linen Chemise

I’ve bought this antique 100% linen chemise. The fabric might be hand-woven, and is very dense (unlike modern linen fabric), heavy, and soft (probably because of the washing and mangling). The chemise measures 75 cm from sleeve to sleeve, is 100 cm long, 55 cm across the chest, and 75 cm wide at the hem.

Antique Edwardian Linen Chemise

The chemise was sewn on a straight stitch only sewing machine, but there’s also some handstitching.

Antique Linen Chemise

It has a square yoke …

Antique Linen Chemise crochet lace

… with delicate 1,5 cm wide crochet lace. I think the lace is hand-crocheted with light grey linen or cotton thread (the thread of the crochet lace is thinner than modern linen sewing thread).

overhand lace

The crochet lace is overhanded to the yoke which was the usual method around 1900 to attach lace. The sewing thread might be the same as the crochet thread.

square yoke chemise

The square yoke is finished with strips of fabric. The yoke measures 28 x 25 cm. The strips measure between 3 and 3,5 cm (they aren’t cut perfectly straight).

front opening linen chemise

The front opening is 16 cm long, and closes with a button and neatly hand-sewn buttonhole.

placket antique chemise

The placket is finished with an extra piece of fabric, and an 0,5 cm seam on the lower flap.

sew chemise placket
Back view of closed chemise placket

antique chemise monogram

There’s a hand-stitched monogram ‘K S.’ under the opening. It measures 1 x 3 cm. It’s embroidered with cross stitch with a thin red thread (it looks and feels like linen thread).

monogram back view
Back view of monogram

side view antique victorian chemise

There are two strips of fabric attached at each side – the usual construction method for Victorian and Edwardian chemises. This was done to save fabric and make the chemise wider at the bottom. Each strip adds about 11,5 cm to the chemise at the hem.

inside view antique victorian chemise

Two selvedges meet at the middle seam …

selvedge seam antique chemise

… so the 0,5 cm seam is finished without turning the edges (the usual Edwardian seam finish where selvedges meet).

flat felled seam edwardian chemise

The other seams are finished with flat felled seams (the usual Edwardian seam for lingerie underam seams).

The hem of the chemise is between 1 and 1,25 cm wide.

frayed seam antique chemise

Some parts of the flat felled seam are frayed.

underarm gusset victorian chemise

There’s an underarm gusset …

edwardian chemise

… so the arms can be raised without difficulty.

The sleeves are made with a 13 x 34 cm piece of fabric.

underarm gusset seams

The gusset measures 11 x 11 cm.

underarm gusset chemise detail

The bottom triangle of the underam gusset is especially secured where the seam is most likely to rip.

chemise underarm gusset
Fabric strips at the side of the chemise and underarm gusset
underarm gusset detail
Detail view of underarm gusset

inside view of underarm gusset

All seams of the sleeve and underarm gusset are finished with flat felled seams, except where selvedges meet.

Antique Edwardian Linen Chemise

The seller dated the chemise between 1880 and 1900. What do you think?

If you want to see some more detail pictures, just post a comment. 🙂

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